I put on the moon block and headed out with the Greg Adams lunartic crew again last night. It was pretty flat so we had to go some place shallow to get sizeable waves. We all paddled out to pull em out of the bowl. Ala Moana Bowls. Its funny that last night was the first time I've ever dropped in at this legendary Waikiki break, and it was completely empty. An hour before midnight was low tide, it was so shallow that if you reached all the way down paddling out, you would hit bottom (vana: sea urchin, or coral rock). Greg advised that if you wipe out, you should "eat it, lying flat". It was good advice, and I got home around 2AM without a single gash or vana spine.
The crew wants me to design a shirt for this multi-annual event, I got a first cut done yesterday afternoon. Its kind of a spoof on all the surf contests we have on island. I'm not done with it yet -- but I'm okay posting it. Feedback is good, thanks!
looks pretty awesome.
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