Monday, October 29, 2007

Blown Out

10/27: Sue worked Friday afternoon and will work all day Sunday, so I took Saturday after her sleep in to run around the island. Surf report was only good for the East shore so I went that way. I've heard that Diamond Head blows out by 11 even when its good, I just didn't know that applied to the whole Eastern shore. It does. After a 2 hour drive I finally pulled in and met up with a buddy to surf his break off of Flat island in Lani Kai. The locals thought it was a great day. I... not so much. These waves were made from pure wind fetch. Some were about 2.5 to 3 feet. Hard to paddle out, it was hard to get around the outside because of the length of the break, the current which pulls into flat island, and the insane wind coming from off shore. Flat Island, surfed it. done. never again.

10/28: Watched the kids all day. Sue had 12 hours at the store today. After I tucked the kids in, I did up Greg Adams line up sticker for the deck. He wanted a blood drop which had a Hawaiian flag in it. I guess it works, if you cut him, he would bleed Hawaiian.

Saturday, October 20, 2007

10/18/07: Went to Chuns at sunrise for an hour and a half before work. First big swell of the season! 10 foot faces. Tried surfing it on a new board (6'1 Puffer). I'm not confident on it yet, so I just tried to stick to shoulders and leftovers. Caught about 6, all overhead, and didn't kill anyone. There were alot of early breaks and outside sneakers, everyone got burried at some point in their sessoin.

10/19/07: We had a power out all along the South shore at 2 PM, so I headed home. Sue sent me out, I went back up to North Shore. Took the van this time so I could bring both boards. Went back to Chuns/Piddlies/Leftovers. Much smaller today, very fun. I selected the long board (9'4). Smooth, long rides. Line-up wasn't consitant. This worked well for natural paddlers like me. I didn't miss much.

Naomi, answered my first question yesterday.
Me: "Do you hear a loud noise?"
Naomi: "Yes"
Wow, she's a real little person. Good job, here's your kiss!