Sunday, April 6, 2008


I went up and took a look at the North Shore yesterday, it was a mess. I never got in. Two swells are hitting the island at the same time. Something aphasic is happening.

Today Gene called me from White Plains beach with a mild surf report and we decided to head West together. Sometimes the Western mountains block the winds from the North East and take care of all the chop. We found some 3 foot faces at Pokai Bay. Sometimes there were 12 in a set sometimes only ...1. It was often more than 15 minutes between sets though, and it was overcast and a little chilly. Surfers were waiting the sets out in the water as the ocean was warmer than the air. We had fun anyway though. Long rides at Pokai.

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