Friday, November 30, 2007


I ended up in my first barrel ever today. It happened at Chun’s before work at around 8 AM. Here’s excerpts from an IM I wrote to a friend just a couple hours later:

I didn’t really know what happened till I came out of it...I just kind of saw water sort of splashing over my head. I was crouched low high on the wall with one hand touching the face.....I came out, cut hard right landed over the top on my feet and two regulars were looking at me with big eyes... I was like stoked, but I didn't know what they were looking at.... (they) were like, whoah man, you just got barrelled!... then the other guy was like ga-ga-yeah

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