Saturday, December 6, 2008


One of my bucket list items was to surf Waimea Bay. I know better to do that when its triple over head. Today it was 8' HAW, 16' FACE so.. I went for it. I had an awesome time and caught about 8 or 9 really great rides. Huge drops, long rides. No crowds. Unfortunately, the session ended with a sickening crack on a steep drop. The board split from the pressure of the water. I felt it through my feet. I got a a groin pull when the board separated, and the fiberglass scratched up my back a little. All good, but the $600 board is totaled. It was on loan too. Looks like I'm taking Greg Adams board shopping Monday.


  1. "he broke his stick he rip so bad"

    haha. nah thats awesome.