10/18/07: Went to Chuns at sunrise for an hour and a half before work. First big swell of the season! 10 foot faces. Tried surfing it on a new board (6'1 Puffer). I'm not confident on it yet, so I just tried to stick to shoulders and leftovers. Caught about 6, all overhead, and didn't kill anyone. There were alot of early breaks and outside sneakers, everyone got burried at some point in their sessoin.
10/19/07: We had a power out all along the South shore at 2 PM, so I headed home. Sue sent me out, I went back up to North Shore. Took the van this time so I could bring both boards. Went back to Chuns/Piddlies/Leftovers. Much smaller today, very fun. I selected the long board (9'4). Smooth, long rides. Line-up wasn't consitant. This worked well for natural paddlers like me. I didn't miss much.
Naomi, answered my first question yesterday.
Me: "Do you hear a loud noise?"
Wow, she's a real little person. Good job, here's your kiss!